"Like a band of Gypsies we go down the highway ~~ We're the best of friends ~~ Insisting that the world keep turnin' our way…" Willie Nelson – Johnny Cash
Carrie’s two favorite French yarn stores are in the 13th arrondissement in Paris, La Bien Aimee and L’Oisive The. It was fun to visit a totally non-tourist part of Paris and to speak “yarn” to non-English-speaking yarn-shop owners. Between sign language, squeezing the yarn, and pointing to body parts, lovely yarns were purchased!
https://www.labienaimee.com/
http://www.loisivethe.com/
Both shops are located in the old Butte-aux-Cailles village of Paris. The Butte aux Cailles was annexed into Paris in 1860 and was historically a working class district. It has progressively become a favourite spot for artists and hipsters. Nevertheless it has kept its village atmosphere and has not changed much since 1945 thanks to its narrow cobblestone streets and its lovely houses which cannot be replaced by higher buildings because of the limestone quarries underground.
Hand dyed yarn in the 13th arrondissement. It is one of Carrie’s favorite yarn stores, started by an American woman from Kansas named Aimee. Her grandmother was French, and when Aimee traveled to France, she met her future husband in Paris and settled there.
La Bien Aimee’s sister shop, L’Oisive The and Salon de The.
After a day recovering from jet lag, we started seeing the sights of Paris. To get oriented, we walked down the Champs-Elysees to the Louvre. The next day, we toured the Orsay Museum. It was easy to get around with our multi-day transportation passes for the metro and the buses.
The Orsay is a museum in a train station. The history of the museum, of its building is quite unusual. In the centre of Paris on the banks of the Seine, opposite the Tuileries Gardens, the museum was installed in the former Orsay railway station, built for the Universal Exhibition of 1900. So the building itself could be seen as the first “work of art” in the Musee d’Orsay, which displays collections of art from the period 1848 to 1914.
http://www.musee-orsay.fr/en/home.html
Our first lunch was at Les Papilles, a tiny bistro around the corner from our hotel in the Latin Quarter. It was delicious!
Wine shelves at Les Papilles
We took the 2-mile walk down the Av. du Champs-Elysee, starting at L’Arc de Triomphe.
One of two fountains honoring the lakes and seas in the Place de la Concorde, major public square, scene of executions, decorated with fountains, statues & an Egyptian obelisk. When it was Place de la Revlolution, King Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were beheaded here.
Looking back up the Champs-Elysee at the Arc de Triomphe.
Garish ferris wheel between the Place de la Concorde and the Tuileries Garden.
A view of the Musee de Louvre from the Tuileries Garden. https://www.louvre.fr/en/departments/tuileries-and-carrousel-gardens
Placard commemorating the beheading of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette at the Place de la Concorde.
Le Garcon au chat
Boy and a cat by Renoir at the Musee d’Orsay.
L’Enfant au chat
Child and a cat by Renoir
A workshop of artists by Fantin-Latour.
Flowers by Fantin-Latour.
Large white bear statue “L’Ours”…
…and a cafe right next to the bear.
Musee D’Orsay used to be a train station, and the old clock is still there keeping time.
We took the Oatman-Topock Road along the previous site of Route 66 over a winding mountain pass. In the old days before there were fuel pumps in cars, some cars would climb the mountain in reverse to guarantee fuel would get to the engine by gravity. We descended on the other side through Oatman, a touristy town where the burros have learned they can roam freely in the streets. It was so crowded with people, we couldn’t park and weren’t interested in mingling with the crowd anyway.
Just west of Kingman, AZ
Last stop for gas during the old Route 66 days
Climbing the mountain, looking back toward Kingman
At the top of the pass
The car navigator showed a winding route
Oatman is an old town on Route 66, now crowded with tourists and burros
We left Santa Fe today after a 6-week stay. We will miss this place and the neighborhood. There was so much to do and to explore, we would like to return to visit the sights that we missed. Here are a few odds and ends pictures from our stay:
Three Great Pyrenees dutifully guarded their alpaca herd from scary walker, Carrie.
The sunsets in our neighborhood were breathtaking.
More neighborhood shots.
No filters were used in these neighborhood photos.
The setting sun is shining under the clouds.
We were lucky to have Santa Fe Restaurant Week while we were here. We went to the Compound up on Canyon Road.
At the Compound, we bought a bottle of Zinfandel from Chateau Montelena, our neighbors in Calistoga.
The goldfish pond in our backyard froze a few times, but all the natives said this was a very warm, mild winter for Santa Fe.
Cold, cold winds would blow up the plain, making for chilly walks at times. Carrie was toasty warm in her hand-knits.
Hopi artist Al Qoyawayma used to work with Charlie on the Salt River Project in Arizona many years ago before he became a famous and full time artist.
The La Fonda Hotel has some very fanciful Easter store window displays.
Meow Wolf is hard to explain, but very fun to experience. It is an art installation complete with mixed media, lights and sounds. When you enter, you go into a “house” of many rooms, interconnected by doorways, stairways, and slides. You can also go through the fireplace, enter the refrigerator, and walk through the back of closets. We tried every doorknob because you don’t know which ones will lead you to another exhibit.
Los Alamos, NM, is a short drive from Santa Fe. The Los Alamos National Lab is located there, and research from the secret Manhattan Project in WWII in Los Alamos resulted in the first atomic bomb. We toured the Bradbury Science Museum and took the walking tour of the historic neighborhood where scientists lived in the 1940s.
Timeline of the Atomic Age
Andy s physics teacher thought he looked like Neils Bohr.
Einstein wrote a letter to FDR urging development of atomic weapons
FDR proceeded rapidly
Carrie found Oppenheimer and Groves to be stiff and humorless.
We traveled north one day in search of fiber arts galleries, tours, and yarn, but found the New Mexico Fiber Arts Trails website is sorely out of date – by as much as 6-8 years. Artists that used to participate in the fiber trail no longer do so, or artists still in business are closed for the winter season. However, we did have a lovely drive exploring hwy 84 north from Santa Fe to Tierra Amarilla and Los Ojos. We stopped at the Abiquiu Inn for lunch, then headed further north to Los Ojos where we discovered Tierra Wools was closed for the winter. On the way back to Santa Fe, we climbed to over 10,000 feet and traveled east across the Carson National Forest, then south on hwy 285 to Espanola where we discovered the Espanola Valley Fiber Arts Center full of local yarn, crafts, roving and many floor-sized weaving looms for classes.
We drove north from Santa Fe on 84 north of Tierra Amarilla, then east through Carson Natl Forest and back down 285.
Beautiful scenery between Abiquiu and Tierra Amarilla
Tierra Wools in Los Ojos is closed for the season.
We took a day trip to Las Vegas, New Mexico, a very historic town about 50 miles northeast of our house. It was a thriving community on the Old Santa Fe Trail in the 1800s and by the late 1800s it was the largest city in New Mexico. The arrival of the railroad in 1879 boosted its fortunes but with the decline of rail travel in the 1950s its economy suffered. Fred Harvey established one of his finest railside hotels in Las Vegas in 1899, the Castaneda Hotel. It fell into decay but is currently being restored by the same group that restored the Harvey House, La Posada, in Winslow.
The New Mexico History Museum has an exhibit on the history of the Fred Harvey Company. The exhibit details greatly enhanced our knowledge and enjoyment of our Harvey House tours. “Artifacts in the exhibit include: the original Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway track sign for Albuquerque’s Alvarado Hotel; Harvey Girl uniforms (including the unique embroidered blouse worn by La Fonda waitresses in the 1950s); furniture designed by famed architect and interior decorator Mary Colter; hand-stamped Navajo spoons; Fred Harvey’s original datebook and an iconic painting of the man behind the empire. Other artifacts include a gong similar to ones that rang travelers to their meals (this one hung in the company’s Chicago office) and an original Doris Lee painting while helping to plan MGM’s The Harvey Girls, starring Judy Garland. The image Lee created was adopted by the Harvey Company and used on menus at El Navajo in Gallup and El Tovar at the Grand Canyon.”
Harvey Houses in the Southwest
Harvey Girls uniform
La Fonda in Santa Fe
Outdoor Trek guides dressed in Southwestern garb
La Fonda in Santa Fe
Old picture of the Castaneda Hotel in Las Vegas, NM
Our house is out in the desert about 12 miles southeast of Santa Fe. The houses are on 2 to 5 acre lots so there is a lot of open land. We both enjoy long walks throughout the neighborhood.