"Like a band of Gypsies we go down the highway ~~ We're the best of friends ~~ Insisting that the world keep turnin' our way…" Willie Nelson – Johnny Cash
Lake Louise is arguably the premier spot in the Canadian Rockies. It is very popular and almost everybody who visits Banff National Park makes their way to Lake Louise. It is a glacier-fed lake surrounded by spectacular steep mountains. Because it is glacier-fed, Lake Louise has a turquoise color due to the glacial flour (very fine particles) that the glacier forms when slowly grinding up rock. Lake Louise is about an hour drive from our house and we were able to visit several times. On our first visit we celebrated Carrie’s birthday with fancy afternoon tea at the upscale Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise Hotel. We had a table by the window with a wonderful view of the lake. There were sweet and savory treats along with excellent tea. It was a memorable birthday celebration. Click on the first photo in each block to view larger images in a slideshow.
Carrie poses by hotel’s sign by Lake Louise.
Clouds obscure the top of the glacier that feeds the lake.
View from our table at tea.
A variety of sweet and savory treats was served on a 3 tier plate.
The top tier held the sweets.
The bottom tier started with scones, cream, lemon curd and marmalade.
Delicate savory sandwiches were delicious, with a favorite being the duck confit.
On other visits to Lake Louise we enjoyed hiking along the lakeshore. There is a trail that goes along the lakeshore for a little over a mile that takes you to the glacier end of the lake, where water flows in from the glacial melt. From the lake’s other end, Louise Creek flows out to the Bow River, making its way through Canmore and Calgary and eventually to Hudson Bay! On one visit to Lake Louise we made our way to Moraine Lake, a nearby glacial lake with equally spectacular views.
We were lucky to be at Lake Louise on a sunny day to enjoy the brilliant turquoise color.
Charlie stands on the shore, with a few of the other tourists behind him.
View of the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise from the lakeshore trail.
The water was ice cold.
Canoe rentals are popular.
View from the end of the lakeshore trail, about a mile from the hotel.
Louise Creek exits Lake Louise on its long journey east.
Moraine Lake was also stunning in the sun.
On our return from one trip to Lake Louise we made a short detour into Kootenay National Park in British Columbia to visit Marble Canyon. A short hike up the canyon passes over very narrow and steep canyon walls. At the end of the hike is a waterfall, where the glacier-fed creek tumbles down toward the valley below. Unlike Lake Louise, Marble Canyon was not crowded and we saw just a few people on our hike.
Bridges along the trail provided views of the steep, deep river gorge.
The blue falls at the top of the trail.
Standing on a platform, we could feel the low, powerful rumble of the water crashing over the rocks.
Information showing how the water erodes the river bed.
At the bottom of the trail, the river joins another and travels on.
During the first week of October we took a three-day road trip through Jasper National Park and on to Edmonton, the provincial capital of Alberta. On our first day we drove northward on the Icefields Parkway, a 150 mile route connecting Lake Louise with the town of Jasper. The highway traverses the northern section of Banff National Park and then Jasper National Park, the largest park in the Canadian Rockies. The route goes along the spine of the Rockies and the scenery is spectacularly beautiful at every turn. It is billed as “one of the most beautiful journeys on the planet.” The first part of the route, in Banff National Park, traverses a series of glacier-fed lakes that flow into the Bow River. Glacial flour provides all of these lakes with a beautiful turquoise color. We made stops at Bow Lake and Peyto Lake, which is viewed from an overlook high above the lake. Click on the first photo in each block to view larger images in a slideshow.
Bow Lake on the way to Jasper from Canmore.
Another view of Bow Lake.
The highest point along the highway, Bow Summit, is where Peyto Lake is located.
The turquoise color is real, no filter applied to this photo!
A photo of Peyto Glacier in 1885 shows it very close to the lakeshore.
Present day photo of Peyto lakeshore, and the glacier has receded beyond view.
We stopped for a picnic lunch on a bluff overlooking the North Saskatchewan River. This river flows out of the Rockies through Edmonton and eventually into Hudson Bay. The Bow River is one of the tributaries to the Saskatchewan River system.
View of the North Saskatchewan River at lunch.
The North Saskatchewan River basin is very wide to accommodate spring snow melt.
This valley was used by white trappers in the fur trade.
After lunch we passed into Jasper National Park and traveled along the edge of the Columbia Icefield, one of the highlights of the drive. An icefield is an expanse of ice that can feed several glaciers, and the Columbia is the largest icefield in the Canadian Rockies. The Columbia Icefield Centre offers a viewing platform overlooking the Athabasca Glacier, one of the glaciers fed by the Columbia Icefield. The glacier has receded substantially over the past 150 years or so, and there are markers in the ground showing where the edge of the glacier existed during certain past years.
Athabasca Glacier viewed from the visitor centre.
Another glacier can also be seen above the parking lot.
Snow covered peaks across from the visitor centre.
Tours are available which use the red all terrain vehicle pictured here. Visitors are able to walk along the glacier from the vehicle.
Farther north we took a short hike to Athabasca Falls on the Athabasca River. The waterfall is one of the scenic highlights of the Icefields Parkway drive. The Athabasca River flows northward from Jasper and eventually empties into the Arctic Ocean.
Athabasca River
Athabasca Falls with blue glacial water.
Secure viewing areas are available for tourists to safely view the falls and feel the rumbling water.
The river continues to erode these rocks along its journey to the Arctic Ocean.
Below the falls, it is easier to see the color of the blue water in the narrow gorge.
A very narrow area down river of the falls.
We spent the night in the town of Jasper and then made the four-hour drive to Edmonton the next morning. The drive eastward leaves the mountains rather soon and then traverses prairie land, evidence of Alberta’s role as one of the principal farming and ranching regions in Canada. Our goal in Edmonton was the West Edmonton Mall, one of the world’s largest shopping malls. But to call it a shopping mall is an understatement, as it is more of an entertainment complex. The mall contains a water park, an ice skating rink, an amusement park with a roller coaster, a hotel, and even an entire Toyota dealership including a service department. We especially enjoyed browsing through an extensive Asian grocery store. It is easy to see why folks in Edmonton would enjoy spending time in this enclosed mega-mall during the bitterly cold Alberta winters. We got our dinner that evening from an Indian restaurant in Edmonton that had butter chicken poutine on the menu. We didn’t order it, however. It seemed a little over-the-top.
Map of the West Edmonton Mall showing major stores and attractions. There were…
an ice rink,
an amusement park,
a water park,
another view of the water park,
a pirate ship, and
a Toyota dealership, complete with cars, Toyota accessory store, and service area.
This statue represents Alberta’s oil field workers, complete with blown glass oil droplets.
The Asian grocery store had everything imaginable for a variety of Asian regional cuisines.
Live mussels and clams and
geoduck and crabs were in the seafood tanks.
Asian baked treats.
Self-serve prepared Asian food.
The Lego store had lifesize Lego people on display.
Upscale Simons Department Store exhibited the latest in young men’s fashion: a holey sweater and a kilt.
The provincial capitol building in Edmonton.
Telus is one of Canada’s largest internet service providers. One of their buildings in downtown Edmonton displays a wide variety of salvaged neon signs.
Canmore, Alberta, in Canada, has been our home for about six weeks, from early September to mid October 2023. Canmore is a town of about 15,000 people just outside the boundary of Banff National Park and about 50 miles west of Calgary. Surrounded by tall, steep mountains, every direction you look is stunningly beautiful. We both agree that it is the most beautiful place we have ever visited. Our house is in a great location — about a ten minute walk from the downtown area, with many restaurants and tourist shops, and down the block from our house is the Bow River Trail. Within less than a five minute walk we can be surrounded by beautiful mountain and river scenery. We have enjoyed walks along the Bow River Trail almost every day we have been here. Click on the first photo in each block to view larger images in a slideshow.
Looking north up the Bow River from our neighborhood.
Looking south along the Bow River. The Three Sisters peaks are seen in the distance.
Easy walk along the beautiful aqua river.
The mountains west of Canmore in the Bow River Valley.
There are at least two herd of elk that wander around Canmore. We see them every few days. We have seen them along the Bow River Trail and in front yards around town, where they like to munch on the lawns. One day at dusk we saw an entire herd on the soccer field across the street from our house. They are huge, spectacular creatures and we keep our distance, as it is mating season and the bull elk can be very aggressive. In addition to the elk, Charlie spotted a black bear right on the outskirts of downtown. It was a small bear, not much bigger than a large dog, and it was minding its business, paying no attention to the people around.
Small herd of elk on a sand bar in the Bow River.
Elk are everywhere in Canmore!
Female elk along the Bow River Trail.
Small bear close to the Bow River Trail.
No trash cans allowed at residences. Instead, trash and recyclables are deposited in bear-proof containers in the neighborhood.
The town of Banff is about a 20 minute drive to the west of Canmore, within the park boundary. We visited it a couple of times to explore the old town. There is a small but pleasant botanical garden on the grounds of the Banff National Park Administration Building.
View of the Banff NP Administration Bldg from the Cascades of Time Gardens.
Rock gardens and covered creek structures dot the Cascades of Time Gardens.
Last of the late summer color.
The forest is just beyond the Cascades of Time Gardens.
View of downtown Banff shopping area.
Andy and Heather came to visit for a week in late September. When we picked them up in Calgary we spent a few hours at Studio Bell before heading up to Canmore. Studio Bell is home to the National Music Centre and the Canadian Music Hall of Fame. We learned that many famous musicians were Canadian, and we caught up on some of our Canadian favorites, such as k.d. lang. We both were struck by the broad influence of Randy Bachman on Canadian rock music and rock music in general. Bachman was a founding member of The Guess Who and Bachman-Turner Overdrive. We also discovered the Women are Persons! Monument in Olympic Park in Calgary.
Heather and Andy pose in the Canadian Music Hall of Fame.
Randy Bachman’s extensive guitar collection.
Little black guitar owned by k.d. lang.
Anatomy of a guitar
Bachman-Turner Overdrive exhibit.
Drum set used in Hockey Night in Canada theme song featuring all the NHL team logos.
Carrie is sitting in the Women are Persons! Monument in Olympic Park in Calgary.
Carrie and Heather pose with declaration of women’s rights.
Andy and Heather enjoyed their time in Alberta and they both said they would like to come back sometime and spend more time. We took several great hikes while they were here and explored lots of beautiful scenery.
Hiking around the perimeter of Johnson Lake.
Johnson Lake hike.
Heather and Andy at Johnson Lake.
A hike to Troll Falls.
Troll Falls.
One of the joys of spending early autumn in Canada is seeing the advent of fall color. When we arrived in early September everything was green, but as the weeks went on we saw more and more spectacular fall color, mostly yellow from the aspen trees.
New snow on the peaks viewed from our living room.
The Threes Sisters peaks with new snow.
Aspen gold and snow capped peaks down the street from our house.