We took several day trips to explore sights in the Edinburgh region. Scotland has an excellent rail system so it is possible to go almost anywhere by train and the trains are frequent, often several per hour.
We took one day trip to Linlithgow Palace, situated between Edinburgh and Glasgow. This old palace was the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots in 1542. It was a favorite of royalty due to its beautiful setting above a lake and due to its central location between Edinburgh and Stirling Castles. Linlithgow Palace is now an abandoned ruin, not having been restored. Nevertheless, it was interesting to explore the remains of the old building and to imagine what it was like in its day.
On another day we took the train up the coast to Dundee, one of Scotland’s major cities and a major trading port for centuries. Our goal was to visit the new Victoria and Albert Museum, just opened about six months ago. We had hoped to visit the old V&A in London but we didn’t get around to it, so we wanted to be sure to see the new V&A in Dundee. It is housed in a striking new building on the riverfront, and the design of the building mimics the shape of a ship to honor Dundee’s shipping history. The V&A is devoted to design so it was interesting to see how Scottish design has influenced everything from fashion to architecture. We were especially surprised to learn that Dundee has long been a center of video game design, dating back to the early gaming days of the 1980s. An exhibit on video games is due to open in April but we were too early for that.
Another day trip took us to New Lanark, a restored 18th century cotton mill town on the River Clyde, upstream from Glasgow. The mill operated on water power from the Falls of Clyde, a set of waterfalls and cascades at this hilly location. The entire village has been restored as a World Heritage Site and no visible signs of modern conveniences are allowed, such as overhead electrical wires or satellite dishes. We toured all of the parts of the village, including the mill (which now spins wool), the workers’ housing, the company store, and the school for the children. The owner, Robert Owen, was very progressive and he treated his employees well (unusual at that time) so consequently his mill was very productive and it prospered for many years. During our visit, there was an interesting display of tapestries illustrating the stories of the Scottish diaspora. We especially liked those from Canada and the U.S. as we were familiar with many of the places and events displayed. Finally, there was a gift shop at New Lanark so we had to buy some yarn from the mill!
One day during the Edinburgh Yarn Festival Charlie set off on his own to explore Stirling Castle. This castle, dating from the 12th century, is in a strategic location overlooking what was, until the 1890s, the farthest downstream crossing of the River Forth, effectively separating the Highlands from the Lowlands of Scotland. Stirling Castle sits high on a volcanic crag much like Edinburgh Castle, but Stirling has a more bucolic (perhaps more authentic) feel because the area is still largely rural. The restoration of Stirling Castle is interesting in that the Great Hall has been painted its original gold color, used both to protect the stonework and to provide a magnificent tribute to the king and the royal family. Most of the old castles that we see today are now gray and drab, but in fact some buildings, statues, and fountains were brightly painted in their day.
Happy Birthday Charlie!